Here’s an in depth review of the Nihui U807 Quadcopter.
NIHUI TOYS U807(no cam): http://goo.gl/kh44gT
NIHUI TOYS U807(2.0mp cam): http://goo.gl/Sc1zkz
NIHUI TOYS U807 Gear: http://goo.gl/oRllTb
Nice and fast flyer really gets up to speed. Has a fast yaw rate, long flight time and is nice and quiet in flight. Also has a headless mode feature, does flips and there is an optional version that comes with an HD camera.
In this review I did have a motor fail after about 7 flights but me crashing a few times may have had something to do with it. I have ordered a new set of motors and when they arrive I’ll update here with more information.
Four motors > $13.96 and they appear to have NO pinions.
Good review very in depth and thorough,thanks for sharing.
Wish I could have seen some video output.
This one looks exciting, nice review 😀
Could 750mAh battery cause any problems on motors?
Thumbs up great review
Very nice review 😀 it is a nice quad that looks awesome :)
Very good and well detailed review. Debating between H6058 vs U807. You
sold me to this quad. Ease of maintenance. Parts availability. Flies well
in the wind. A must for fliers living in areas with constant trade winds.
For the lift issue, different set of props or higher discharge lipo’s.
Maybe anyone of your viewers tried one.
17:00 No…. adding weight “to keep the props spinning” does not add run
time and weight in the center has minimal inertia effect compared to weight
added further from the center. This has higher pitch higher aspect ratio
(probably lighter weight) props which is good for speed (wind) but the
trade off is less thrust like having a car in 3nd gear vs 2rd gear and
that’s what people are noticing. Are you sure the prop shaft is aluminum
and not steel? That’s an upgrade for some as making it (or anything else)
lighter in weight will increase the run time. Looks like a nice little quad
for the back yard. Amazing what the hobby has become. Show up with this at
the local flying field not all that long ago and say you designed it
yourself and think it will fly and you’d be laughed at by all the experts
as it seems to break a few rules the computer takes care of and only the
noobs would think it might work just because it looks cool;-)17:00 Adding
weight “to keep the props spinning” does not add run time and weight in the
center has minimal inertia effect compared to weight added further from the
center. This quad has higher aspect ratio (probably lighter weight) props
which is good for speed (wind) but the trade off is less thrust like having
a car in 3nd gear vs 2rd gear and that’s what people are noticing. Are you
sure the prop shaft is aluminum and not steel? That’s an upgrade for some
as making it (or anything else) lighter in weight will increase the run
time. Looks like a nice little quad for the back yard. Amazing what the
hobby has become. Show up with this at the local flying field not all that
long ago and say you designed it yourself and think it will fly and you’d
be laughed at by all the experts as it seems to break a few rules the
computer takes care of and only the noobs would think it might work just
because it looks cool;-)
Edit: After getting a U807 and then another one on sale after the first
one’s 4 motors failed immediately I noticed there have been some important
changes made. First, one of the early shipments of U807s was sent out with
the end cap/motor wire polarity reversed meaning the motors were running
backwards and their brushes were binding and failing, mine failed 1,2,3,4,
like dominos falling a short flight apart. And that explains the bad
reputation the motors were getting early on… I have found the stock
replacement motors and current motors now installed with correct color code
wiring to be quite good after breaking them in by not letting the motors
get hot when new and keeping RPM’s down until they break in and stop
getting hot… which is a pain as it takes quite a few charges of long
duration due to stopping and letting the motors cool off after a few
seconds run time to get the last motor seated and running cool.
The bottom center section now has 8 screws, one on each side of the motor
arm and I believe this change helps with canceling out vibration quite a
bit from reading reviews as using a CMOS FPV Pico camera and hovering in
fount of a 32 in TV/monitor the picture looks just like it does holding it
in your hand with no vibration and that’s using the stock bushings… ball
bearings make it even smother and let the props free spin longer adding
flight time where getting ten+ minutes flying smooth is not unusual with a
better battery as the stock 20-25C 17.1 gram blue 650 mAh battery
(which would be amazing not that long ago) is a far cry from the 19.4 gram
750 35-70C Nano Tech where the added weight matters little as the increase
in performance makes up for it plus you lose half a gram or so filing down
the inside of battery cage so it fits… with the stock battery it’s a
little weak in its climb rate which due to the prop design is sacrificed
already but well worth it IMO as it can handle some wind and I have yet to
have a warm battery in cool weather giving better motor life and longer
flight times… as a matter of fact the battery will not keep itself warm
as the weather gets cold and you’ll lose some flight time unless you
insulate the battery using emergency blanket foil and tissue for
insulation. I haven’t tried the Micro Motor Warehouse Dark edition motors
yet but would expect a nice bump up in performance with bearings added.
Bearing should be added when new so prop shafts are not warn in by the
bushing. For 7 bucks it’s well worth it and a shame Nuhui spends their end
of manufacturing cost on the bushings instead of 8 decent bearings. These
The stock props are very consistent in manufacturing and the A props with
just a tiny piece of tape are right on the money as close as my balancer
can detect and so far out of 5 sets of props all the B props are spot on
and need no balancing. Due to manufacturing consistency if you do one A
prop you can just copy it as they are all the same, at least all the ones I
received were. The “weight” at the bottom of the prop shaft (the aluminum
shaft is just shy of half a gram) is the bushing surface that stops the
prop shaft from pulling through and it needs the surface area to act as the
bushing surface or an inner bearing race stop.
The biggest issue with the U807 is the prop design uses a proper center
screw which is MUCH better than using side screws that can split the prop
as well as put it out of balance… but the screw is thin and its
threads are super fine so new prop shafts need to be cleaned out or
its almost guaranteed the screw binds going in from aluminum dust left over
from manufacturing. Brake cleaner with a fine nozzle tube works well and
then some WD 40 on the screw so the screw goes in and comes out easier.
This tiny prop screw has been an issue for some people and using the
correct screw diver tip size is mandatory but dealt with properly it’s a
non issue although it requires attention the threads are clean so the screw
pulls the prop all the way down and I use a spare screw before mounting the
prop to make sure the threads are clean all the way down. You can hardly
see the dust that prevents the screw from going in.
The biggest complaint I have with it applies to just about all the “toy”
quads and that is the short range low resolution toy grade TXs that insult
the RC aircraft being made and flown with them like the 80 mm JJ1000v2, my
favorite next to perhaps the 2.5 gram lighter Juncheng 3015-2. However
there is another issue with the U807 that may be related (only observed
with a fully charged battery within the fist two minutes of flight so far
or on the ground unable to yaw, roll, or pitch) as there seems to be a
resolution dead spot in the TX throttle range down low where translational
lift happens in flight conserving energy that causes the motors to suddenly
stop on both of mine requiring the throttle stick be brought back down
quickly to zero throttle and back up to regain throttle control regardless
of which TX or U807 combination is used. You can cause it (on mine at
least) by letting the U807 run at a certain low RPM’ on the ground breaking
in the motors, how I first noticed it and 3 times in flight thereafter) and
I think it’s a low resolution issue of the throttle where the U807 thinks
it has lost throttle signal even though the green light does not show it.
As long as I avoid staying at that throttle location for more than a few
seconds it never happens so I think a higher resolution TX will solve
the issue no one to my knowledge has reported on… so really need to try a
3rd U807 from later generation to be sure.
Fortunately the Nuhui U807 uses the Flysky protocol known for its good
range and is now supported by Deviation using a DEVO TX so IMO the U807 @
$28 BNF may be a contender for the best FPV quad under 125 grams… can’t
say for sure until I try it. For the back yard the stock TX works and the
U807’s TX is better than most IMO and I have yet to add a notch filter so
it looks quite promising. The only issue is the A7105 Wireless RF 2.4GHz
Transceiver Module used I’ve been able to locate only puts out 17dBm or
50mw and is therefore not a full range transmission as it would be @ 20
dbm. If the spec @
correct and it’s not 30mw as some are despite being advertised at
17dBm then it is actually more than 50% of the normal hobby grade 100mw
full range TX so may be enough for short range micro/mini FPV. It’s more
than enough for LOS flying at this small size and the DEVO TX will allow a
MUCH better flying experience with far better control response due to
better resolution and the ability to program flight controls to your style
of flying, but for FPV I want the half mile video link to have less range
than the RC link. Just have to wait and see… shipping this time of year
All in all I think the U807 is the best geared in this weight size, the
price is right, it just needs a better TX.
Thanks Dustin for a great review of the Nihui U807. I thoroughly enjoyed
Would you know if any replacement parts from the “La Trax Alias” would
fit/work with the U807? They have a replacement shaft that I believe is
made of an alloy, possibly aluminum. The cost is minimal. If the original
shaft will stick to a magnet, that will tell you if it is made of a heaver
material. Also Alias props are available in different colors, the will help
orientation and personalization for the U807. (It might even solve the
What was the delivery time from Gearbest? As it took 1-week before they
confirmed that my order was sent. I live in Southern California. (Ordered
an U807 w/motors and batteries, on June 18, 2015)
Thank you in advance for your input Dustin. I am looking am forward for
your motor replacement update, and second review of the Nihui U807 :)
A GREAT review!
Your TX has a blue backlight for the LCD. Mine doesn’t. Anyone else’s TX
lack an LCD backlight?
Found the reason for no backlight – wire separated from the connector
leading to the LCD. Chinese “quality control” strikes again. Will now
attempt to fix it without destroying the connector. This is the ONE time I
wish I had some of that conductive silver glue. *Now fixed*.
Your mention of the wire antenna extension inspired me come up with another
way. I used a hobby knife to cut an “X’ in the top of the removed stock
rubber antenna stub. Through the cut “X” I fed one of those small diameter
plastic coffee stirring straws you find in fast food restaurants (mine are
black ones from Carl’s Jr/Hardees, I think, and are 3.75mm in diameter),
used CA (superglue) at the “X” to lock the straw in place and plugged the
open end of the straw with some epoxy. I then fed the antenna up into it.
Doesn’t even look bad, almost like it’s supposed to be that way.
would replacing the stock 3.7v motors with 7.4v H8C motors and using 7.4v
Lipo 950mAh battery mod work?
Can this be paired with other transmitters?
I ordered one of these a couple days ago (DealsMachine). As for motors, it
uses 8mm x 20mm motors. These are the same as the Hubsan X4 .. and those
motors are available everywhere. Nice that they gave you extra gear
pinions to press on .. I believe the Hubsan X4 does the same, as the motors
for it come without the little plastic gear on it. I ordered some extra
750mah Turnigy JST 1S batts. for it, and the next time I order something
from Amazon, I’ll get a set of Hubsan motors for it. They don’t have the
plugs on the end, but it’s easy enough to splice them in (I’m a Sr.
Electronic Technician 😉 ) Cheers
Are the spare motors for this plug n play ? I like to avoid soldering when
possible if I can.
Would this be good for a first quad copter for someone who’s been flying
fixed winged entry-level planes?
Anyone know of a battery that is compatible (dimensions), but has more
Where can I get the plug and play Motors
Thanks bro appreciate it
Nice review – I’m now a subscriber! I really like this quad too. The
implementation of headless mode on this one is sketchy to say the least.
Your overview of the mode is good but I think the compass orientation is
entirely within the quadcopter. It doesn’t know where you are or which way
the transmitter is pointing. The quadcopter knows which way it is pointing
(its heading) and what the transmitter joystick command is (up, down, left,
right). In headless mode the quadcopter then computes the offset between
the commanded joystick direction and the original reference heading to
figure out which way it should go.
I don’t know if you can help me or not but ,,,,I purchased a U807 and flew
it about 3 times the first day. after that It runs for about 4 minutes and
then when I try to fly it again, it begins to turn the blades for about 2
seconds and then the blades stop. the copter then begins to blink
continually. does this indicate a low battery or something else?
My second question is, when do I know it is fully charged?
thank you for any help you might be able to give me,
Richard Jones firstname.lastname@example.org
take 3 seconds and stick a piece of foam between the camera and quad and
the jello is gone. headless mode is worthless in this quad with the
“wobble” feature in mid and high settings and the super irritating constant
beeping from the controller when it is in headless mode. that is a real
shame because it would be a great quad without those issues.
Can you recommend a quad that looks like this but is manageable for a
beginner? Thanks! ??
I also have one but mine has 8 screws in the bottom cover, is mine a newer
model? Also does it have bearings on the shafts, I cannot get the big gear
off the shafts too have a
Another very strange thing is, just letting the motors run while the Quad
is on the ground, it will shut down by itself, only if you take off will
they keep running, never seen this before, or is it just mine.I know my
Blade 350QX Quad also does that.
cool music cool review
Anybody have a suggestion of how to remove the pinion gear from the motor
shaft for replacement? Also, what is a good alternative battery? Thanks
By the way what is the great song?
What and by who was that flight test song? Great review btw, would love to
see this in FPV. Can you recommend a FPV of this caliber in the $100 price
range? Flight time is big consideration too. Thanks!
Re-Watched this video and wondered if you ever got the spare motors and got
a chance to finish the review, although you got most of it straight off.
good video MR dustin
Enjoyed your review! Will you please post a link to that awesome song?
Review was very helpful in setting up my U807 since the manual was very
difficult to understand as a quad noob. As my first quad with 0 experience,
this quad can be a bit challenging and crashed a few times but held up very
well as mentioned in the review.
I am getting a smaller quad to get used to the control. Great review !!
I received this quad by mistake from Banggood, instead of the JJRC X1 ( a
$70.+ difference). It was resolved by them offering me this quad for $20.00
total. Not too shabby since it includes a camera. Thanx for explaining how
to set up the gyros/compass as I couldn’t make heads or tails from the
pidgin English manuel. I figured MOST of it out myself (except the
rotating part) But I seem to have the opposite problem than you with the
lipo holder…it’s VERY/TOO tight, also the camera doesn’t wobble in the
least. Maybe the black ones are a little different for some reason. I also
tried both sticks to the lower RIGHT which gives me flashing lights for a
few seconds…so now, with mine, its lower left….(lights
blinking)….then right….(lights blink)….then both down & inwards and
hand-rotate (which I didn’t know until now), lol.
Is there any solution for the TX problem not sending at low throttle. My U 807 also loses contact when throttle is almost but not completely shut down and it also does that with full lipo during first minutes of flight. As a newby I cannot imagine that you can get used to this habit espacially when getting the quad back from heights.