My build and review of the FlyPurrz Purrz 75 speedwing. It was sent to me for free to review. I have however tried to keep this review as honest and as unbiased as possible.
My build and review of the FlyPurrz Purrz 75 speedwing. It was sent to me for free to review. I have however tried to keep this review as honest and as unbiased as possible.
Really impressive speed meant for a very experienced pilot. A full CF frame is dangerous for FPV as it cast RF shadows for pilot’s video antenna. This model seems like a pilon racer with pusher setup. I didn’t get the purpose of the big back lower fin though ( it will wear off of get damaged after many landings).
What a waste of 2 great R/C aircraft on a noob builder/pilot.
Have you heard of a Dremel? It’s a small rotary tool that hobbyists use.
Have you also heard of YouTube? It’s a video sharing website where one can find videos of how to use a bungee launch for R/C aircraft.
Why would you cut out the center bottom section of the wing? It’ll fold at speed now.
You do not throw the plane up on bungee, release low to ground
you are the man, was very courius about this wing, thanks for the review
3d printing is for prototypes, not production.
Next time use a lunch rail pedal launcher. You’re plane will live longer.
Many very nice ones made in Germany, or make it from PVC pipe. They already gave you the bungee so why not. Launching from hand with a fragile aircraft always ends in disaster.
The proper construction title of this aircraft is hollow molded…
Very pricey competition model sail planes are made the same way, although, this plane would have benefited to have a Carbon Kevlar weave instead of just plain glass cloth, but it’s very pricey.
They could send one to me to review… I won’t crash it.
Change the motor for a DYS fire 6S running gear with a 5×5 and you may even hit 300kph. I used that setup in an S800 foamie for a clean 200kph and the Purrz has nice drag free lines. Also, to all who want very strong 3d prints, PET-G, very slow, 0.1mm layers and go 30degC hotter, 80degC bed. Your prints will be a bit heavier but almost clear and so strong that you can suspend a 100kg guy off a 5mm print. I used it like this for my kiteboard fins and footplates.
P.S. bungee is perfect technique for hotliners but hook should be about 10% of total length forward of CoG.
Ну безрукий какой, дыры нарезал страшные, сервак кой как поставил. Первый запуск просто эпический ?
Дали немцу два стальных шарика, так он один сломал второй потерял.
Tip for running the servo connectors. Use a magnet to drag along the outside of the wing, pulling the the connectors through the inside. Most connector pins are made of plated steel and would be attracted to the magnet. If this is not the case a wire could be inserted into the connectors to attract them to the magnet.
Often seen on fast fighter jets, Then shows a picture of the slowest fighter jet. Lol
Super nice, we have subscribed ???
FRP is NOT simply fiberglass with a plastic coating. FRP is what you get with any plastic resin infused fiberglass material also known as a composite. It being coated in plastic on the outer structure has nothing to do with it being FRP. This is how most composites are constructed BTW. Carbon fiber panels are CRP. The main rigid component of the structure is indeed the plastic resin (epoxy in most modern cases). The fiberglass or carbon is there to do exactly what the term suggests, reenforce the resin structure.
ill stick to flying helis
Hand launching is the way to go and knowing how to bleed off speed was the factor here.rookie
I would be so pissed after the bungee launch smashed it up no way would I have fixed it after that!! way too much work.
great review. its a no deal if it can’t take a bit of punishment. nothing worse than being all excited with all the gear to go home with only busted bits.
What is your current favorite winged platform overall? love to know
Nice video! I have asked them to send me one to see how fast it can actually go. Was that a wing drop stall at 100kmh on the bad landing? Trying to understand why it rolled and there was no flare.
Thanks a lot, very well done review in every aspect.
If it seems almost impossible to land without breaking it, what is the point of it all, especially when the take off is another major risk. The current version would be a nightmare to me, though it is an interesting and expensive/time consuming experiment.
Please read before commenting:
The launch – A lot of people have said that we launched the Purrz wrong, but we did the launch according to Flypurrz own instructions.
The bungee – It’s been pointed out that we didn’t assemble it correctly, and it seems that you were right. My bad eeek.
Cutting holes – Yes I should have used a Dremel, but I didn’t have one to hand. I also didn’t know in advance that the material would crack when cut with a knife. Hindsight is a great thing huh!
Hardware used – I’m not rich, so often have to use whatever parts I have in my spares box. They sometimes might not be the best or more suitable parts, but I can’t always afford to buy new.
The manual – I built this aircraft in accordance with the 1st gen manual. Flypurrz have since revised the manual and changed some things (eg: max take off weight is now much lower).
Experience – I’ve been flying fixed wing aircraft for many years, but I’ve never flown anything as fast as the Purrz before. This was my 1st time flying a properly fast (over 160kph) aircraft.
Not sure we’d be legally able to fly that in the UK as its over 100mph/161kph.
This belongs with lawn darts and hand grenades… rather dangerous… especially without a decent FPV HD feed. It’s just too little wing area. And fibreglass is so 1980’s …fast “hotliner” gliders that reach speeds of over 200 MPH are almost always Kelvar and Carbon Fibre …no one uses fibreglass anymore. Much better to build a reputable hotliner and throw a DJI air unit in it. No flaps or spoiler to slow it down for landing either. Sorry, this is nothing more than work-in-progress and downright dangerous.
i have had many planes similar to that and have always hand launched.
Sorry, but it makes no sense to test something like that with 25mw VTx power…
It looks like a sexy toy for lady ….dickwing….and it flies like a dick . Useless
I feel your pain I hate grp it’s like egg shell and really hard to fix. I recon that prop was too big and caused problems on take off due to the torque twisting body causing lack of lift And the lower tail even if you did bleed all the speed on landing will always drive nose into ground Keep the wing and build your own balsa body will b much stronger and you can fix it in the field. I bet it will go just as fast. I can tell this plane vexed you. I had one like this once Although it comes as a kit it takes longer to rig than it would to scratch build from start to finish. Wonder if the creators are actually modellers or cad dreamers. Bet your glad yo didn’t pay for it ????
Purple Turd!
That’s not a drone it’s a plane. Shit video
Try capacitor on pdb. 35v 1000uf. Clean up video feed
If you want to be even more metric guy please write “km/h” instead of “kph” 🙂 SI system is very precise how to write units and kph is out of the standard.
Looks like the first rough landing, or a landing on somewhere other than soft gras….will result in the plane exploding on contact.
Much to brittle. Will stick with my drak for speed runs
The bungee could release correctly. But you threw the plane in the air and let it loose pretty high up. Then it’s no wonder when that thing kisses the floor.
lmao the desktop pic 7:17
Thanks, I really enjoyed that! May I offer a suggestion? Orient your prints on the bed so that the “grain” or layers, are perpendicular to the load axis. It will make for extra support material when printing, but a more reliable part in the end.
A great little plane, however, bungee launching is always a no-go.
I would rather go down the road of 3D Printed models.