Having built a racing FPV mini quadcopter or drone, as the media call them, the next big question will probably be: “which lipo (lithium polymer) battery should I be using?”. In this video I talk about the options and discuss the importance of the battery’s C rating.
Hey Bruce, once again great video!
What cheap but good charger would you recommend for these types of
batteries as I am very new to this stuff. Also, what does the stuff like 3s
or 4s mean?
Another informative video, Bruce. Storing under partial load is a good
tip, too. How about doing one on low voltage alarm strategy? Low C
batteries under load tend to set off alarm and then on the charger aren’t
discharged to the point you might normally run them. HK has a series of
high capacity/low C batteries for multi-rotors. They are lighter in
weight, of course and the alarm goes off well before they are truly
discharged to a safe level if set for 10.8 or so on a 3s battery, for
example.
Hey bruce you mentioned weight – but is there a formulae to factor this in
too. Eg if i increase power by 20% (as per your formulae) but increase
weight by 30% ,what is the overall effect on flight time?
BTW I mean battery weight not auw of craft
Get a new mic Bruce, please =)
If you need money maybe we can start a collection on your behalf =)
Did you see if the C rating is true?
HK can print anything on their labels
get some 4s packs Bruce =]
Wow thanks a lot for telling me I spent 30$ on 3 new zippy compacts 1500mah
25C. Well at least I know what all those number mean now. Could have made
this video before the cheap miniquad build but better late than never.
Great vid. Also You could make one about the smartieparts board, a
programmer board designed for the 9X, show us how to do it, what are the
benefits, is it worth it and what software to flash it with and what are
the features of the aoftware. Regarts!
+juz70 – what are your favourite packs for mini-quad racing?
Thanks again Bruce for these yideos, most instructive! Question, on a
2cell LiPo 800mah, a bloke suggested it can be charged at 3C– I thought
1C was about correct remembering your instruction previously ???
I REMEMBER WHEN THIS WAS A GOOD SITE BRUCE YOU DID AIRCRAFT NOW ITS 93
PERCENT QUAD ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ I THINK I HAVE SEEN MY LAST
TODAY AFTER 3 YEARS ITS A SAD DAY , UN’SUBSCRIBING
can i use the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45~90C Lipo Pack with your low
cost mini quad? im new to all this but am keen to build one, another
question is im going to need to buy a charger, any suggestions?
This is where testing maximum current draw on the bench will guide one on
the correct battery for the use.
I have likely watched all of your educational videos and with similar
backgrounds I enjoy learning over again. It’s almost like when I used to
fix TVs (in the ’60’s) and would first ask my client “is it plugged in?”
Everything in this hobby is now connected to electrical power and that
power is utilized by many components so it makes sense to use the highest
rating you can afford just so you have ‘Headroom’.
I am curious regard yours and my habit of bringing in the flight when my 3S
battery is around 11.3-11.4 volts. My charger usually returns a value of
50-55% usage though it should be safe to go to around 10.5 volts and 75% or
so usage. Perhaps I’m just stuck on 6 minutes ……. Thanks!!!
I cheaped out with 20C, 1300mAh for my 250 miniquad. Is there still hope,
or should I spike and soak them and throw them in the garbage?
what about a LiFe battery showdown since there are getting better, or are
they?
im running my 1.5 nano-techs to 10.5v is that too low for long life?
Questions on Battery Management: how long can one reasonably safely keep
their LiPo packs at full charge? And does storing them in the fridge while
fully charged help extend this? Example – charge one’s packs in the
morning but then it starts raining and you won’t fly for another week or
two. Is it better to discharge them to storage level or can one keep them
fully charged in the fridge? Thanks.C
C rating is only good for marketing. The REAL performance index is
internal resistance. If you have a higher C stated battery, but it has a
higher internal resistance, it’s actually a LOWER performing battery.
I’d like to see a real life C rating demo, from what I can tell most C
ratings are just made up by the manufacturer.
Excellent little PSA towards the end.
I used to discharge to 3.5 volts per cell think it’s enough (I’m sure even
3.3 to 3.0 when I started) and I have noticed performance losses. Now I’m
going to try 3.7 volts per cell after watching this if I get new batteries.
Although this may only be about half the rated discharge capacity of a
lipo, after using my old, sometimes puffy, batteries; I’d rather have half
capacity, healthy, and punchy batteries than half capacity and poor sucky
batteries.
Thanks again Bruce.
Every Nano-Tech I have owned puffed when sitting on my desk at storage
charge so I stopped buying them. No other brand that I have has failed
like that. In fact all of my other brands of Lipos still work great even
the ones that are many years old.
Great info :)
Hey Bruce… In the vid you say if you leave fully charged batteries in
storage they will die quicker… Would I be ok charging them the night
before or in the morning and leaving them charged in storage for say 8
hours?
You are spot on about the power and resistance. I find I get way more punch
from running 4 1000mAh batteries in parallel then I do from running just 1
4000mAh battery by itself on my Peace drone. I think Ed from Experimental
Airlines, had a similar video, where he was explaining resistance. Great
video Bruce.
Hi Bruce, thank you for all you time and effort with these educational
movies. Im new to the whole mini quad thing and was wondering if you know
someone in Christchurch that i can talk to re items i have for a build as
well as to maybe test some fpv goggles prior to me investing? Many thanks
Yes, I too always set my voltage alarm to 3.8 v per cell & write the date
of purchase on the battery. Surprised how long of a life I get out of a
battery sometime.
Have you had any experience with lion power batteries from Banggood? such
as this one that claims 40c? I’m in the process of building my first quad
and i know the batteries are going to be the first thing i am going to want
to upgrade. Wanted to know if this would be a waste of money.
Also this one that seems almost too good to be true especially for the
price.
Bruce, thanks so much for the vid! I currently use a 3s on my mxp230,
cobra 2300 kv, 12A ESCs, and 5030 props. I’m strongly considering
upgrading to a 4s config. (I just cancelled the order on my zippy compact
4s 35C batteries from your vid. Thx). I know my ESCs and cobra motors are
rated for 4s. Will I be drawing too much power if I upgrade to 4s battery
and 5040 props? Should I be using a lower kv motor? What is a typical 4s
setup? Are there other components I need to change? Your videos are the
best. Thanks again!
Bruce, how will you be getting new batteries? Hobbyking Aus and
International warehouse does not ship to NZ anymore, I have tried to order
today but nah…
Hey Bruce. I fly my batteries down to 10 volts and then the resting voltage
comes back up to 11.2 volts. Am I pushing them to hard. If I quit flying my
mini quad at 11.2 volts under a load I wouldn’t get a 3 minute flight in
with my nanotech like the one in this video.
Thanks for your review Bruce . I appreciate how you explain the same thing
3 different ways as it clears up confusion for the hard of learning. Your
channel educates all . Those with a advanced knowledge will find it long
winded because your telling them what they already know. Please keep your
vids the way they are.
what’s the difference between xt30 and xt60?
test the Turnigy Bolt 2400mAh 3S 11.4V 65~130C High Voltage from hobby king
While the info in this video is correct, it doesn’t always translate in
real life. I use 2200mAh 20c batteries on my 250 quad with 2204 motors,
and I sure don’t hear my voltage alarm going off as soon as I lift off as
this video suggests. Actually I get flight times of around 10 min on a
2200 20C, and thats with full FPV setup and a GoPro onboard.
The slight extra punch from the 45c 1300 is negated by the 6 min flight
times I get…..
Direct from factory lipo meany factory barns like kypom , horeson, AGApower
and more!
Hi,
Here is Melody from ONBO Power at onbopower com
I would to highly recommend you to refer these following hot selling FPV Racers
Lipo Battery as below:
OP-1300mAh/60C-4S 29.0*34.0*72.0mm(T*W*L)
OP-1500mAh/60C-4S 27.0*34.0*88.0mm(T*W*L)
OP-1800mAh/60C-4S 27.0*34.0*105mm(T*W*L)
Welcome to inquiry for more detail, Thanks.
Best Regards,
Melody